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The auction description says it does not power on and I am hoping to use this thread to troubleshoot and fix it. Can you tell me where you purchased your part from? Sonos and Sonos product names are trademarks or registered trademarks of Sonos, Inc. All other product names and services may be trademarks or service marks of their respective owners. Speaker sets Products Accessories Learn Support.

Search in all forums Search in ‘Advanced setups’. Community Advanced setups Repair ZP The amp has no power. Is there an internal fuse for this unit?

Has anyone taken one apart? Previous 1 1 of I think I have detected a short on it or something connected to it Could that be that the inductor has a short? Keep in mind it was DMM tested on board and I have not removed it.

The resistor that blows comes off the primary I pulled the inductor and its good Great work documenting your dataeheet and thought process.

5M0265R Datasheet

We will get good at this some day, maybe Sonos will hire us?? LOL JK So the inductor in the upper left of your picture is the common mode inductor that is in series with the 28V supply. In continuity mode with a DMM you just get a short since it just sees a wire. I once removed that inductor it was a real pain getting all 5mm0265r wires back in in an attempt to find out if my short was in the rectifier 2 diode packs clipped to the chassis ratasheet the load.

For me it was the load. One of my amp ICs was a short. That is the unit I am working currently. I will share a troubleshooting slide on the 28V supply when I get it working reliably. I had to get creative and solder datasheeet patches to get it through the hole so I could solder the leads back The dim light is indeed bright.

smps circuit diagram 5MR datasheet & applicatoin notes – Datasheet Archive

I’m guessing the short is somewhere in that area. Just need to get that datasheet off but I dread it since it has a lot of solder points and the heath sink. I was dreading pulling that component. Not sure 5m026r5 to test a PWM I’m guessing that will take a breadboard. Finding this short is not easy! The 2 RTN points on the transformer are showing 0L. I tried to short those too, but got nothing.


Actually I am getting no power on the secondary winding testing 1 and 2 for 3. They show nothing using a 60W bulb. I get some voltage on the primary like 10vbut nothing on the secondary.

Selling 5MR, 5MR, 5M with 5MR, 5MR, 5M Datasheet PDF of these parts.

The PWM is warm so its the likeliest suspect at this stage. Your assumption seems correct. The PWM is not switching therefore no secondary voltages will show up. I would unsolder that PWM and watch the bulb go out!

The continuity is in both directions. Based datasheett the schematic, this part looks blown to me. I think we may have found the culprit. Now I just need to find a replacement. It is a 5MR Fairchild. Looks like the replacement is a KA5MR. Nobody carries some of these parts in the US, so I need a long wait from China yes not Mouser or Digikey – seems to be special order. In the mean time I decided to probe around and have a small concern. So I am wondering if that is what may be blowing that?

I am reading 13V across pins 3 and 1. 5m2065r is with the dim bulb installed so it is probably a little bit higher. Is that with or without the PWM attached?

Im wondering with the PWM attached, it may pull some of that voltage down. I am currently waiting on that PWM 5m0265e China. Yes that is with the PWM installed.

I’m reading 44V at 1 and 3 with a dim bulb as well. I’m really hoping this is the bad component since my bulb is full dim after the caps charges and this PWM is 5m0265t. I’ll post when I get them and try it out. I replaced them and just as I thought, the PWM pulls down the voltage.

Shut off the power and put the wifi cards back in.

Waited a few minutes and opened the iPhone Sonos app. Bob is your Uncle! There it was in all its glory and works! The Sonos lives and is revived. Total cost for replacement parts: Total opportunity cost I almost tossed it Savings to fix it myself: I want to personally thank gruv2ths for the insight on this, and chicks for the dim bulb ideas. That sent me on a Youtube and reading spree that gave me the tools and confidence to diagnose and fix the problems. Thanks for all the help!


I would like to share a couple of items that dataeheet help others I have no idea what kind of solder that Sonos uses, but it is insane.

5M02659R, 5M0265R, 5M0280

In order to get it to eatasheet, I had to get my Hakko iron up to degrees. Getting it datasheeh components was a chore. That PWM and heat sink took a good 45 minutes to get off along with about 2 feet of desoldering braid. I am surprised I didn’t destroy contacts as I really had to put that iron on for a while to get that solder to move. I tried a desoldering pen too, but to no avail.

The best way to get it off was keep cracking at it with desoldering braid. I would love to hear if anyone has any hacks or ways to deal with such a problem. Also, the dim bulb was brilliant. What a great tool to build. It is critical for testing any sort of power supply to keep you from blowing more components.

Without this, I would daatsheet destroyed multiple resistors and thermistors that kept blowing. This helped me trace the hot part. A 60 watt bulb seemed to do the trick for finding the failed component. I tried a watt bulb and it let too much power through, so the bad components would get raging hot dataaheet. From my readings, the hot part is almost always the culprit for a failed component.

The best resource that I found for fixing and diagnosing power supplied is here: He has a 5m02265r chapter on a dim bulb tester.

That site and doc really walks through the different sides of a power supply and what to look for. IMHO, that was invaluable. Anyways, I really hope this helps others. This was a great learning experience and has given me the confidence to perhaps start hunting for bad Sonos products on eBay and fix em up.

I really want to encourage people to post in these forums for help. We CAN fix these things and with a great community like we have here, we can keep these things running. I put together a little procedure for removing the bias converter PWM. If you remove the PWM, clean it and use the arctic silver 5 thermal paste.