ILFORD FP4 PLUS, like HP5 PLUS, it’s based on older emulsion technology and has “cubic grain”, as opposed. To “T-grain” found in Delta and. Ilford FP4 Plus is said to be unrivaled for high quality black and white photography as it is a true black and white film. But what exactly is a “true. FP is a cubic-grain black-and-white film from Ilford Photo with a long history. It originated as Fine grain Panchromatic roll film in Like HP film, it has gone through a number of versions since then, with the latest being FP4 plus (FP4+ for short).
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ILFORD are a relatively new player to the photographic film market, having only just opened their doors a little over years ago. Let that sink in. Its very fine grain, outstanding sharpness and high acutance make it the film of choice whenever a job demands great enlargement or the subject contains a wealth of fine detail. As with all black and white film, development is hugely important when trying to control, or manage grain.
I mostly use Rodinal 1: The most valuable advice I can give when developing this film is to control your temperature.
Keep your chemicals down at around 23 degrees C, minimise your agitations and make sure you give it a good soak before you get started. That said, I find the resulting images from both stocks to be quite similar. If you want supreme sharpness with great contrast, go with Delta. There will be more from this roll, as well as other tests at EIand in the very near future.
I mostly shoot it in 35mm and will happily overcook it in development to serve my own high-contrast fetish. Of course, this is just my own personal view. More so than most black and white films, your input in development will define the results, so play around and see what works for you.
Wonderful grain, excellent tonal gradation, excellent sharpness on the one hand; fat grain, blocked out shadows and supreme contrast on the other. You can help by contributing your thoughts, work and ideas to inspire others reading these pages. Take action and ilfoord drive an open, collaborative community: Like what you see here?
It is a film that I adore for its super fine detail, its extensive variety of uses and also […]. I was interested in this as I just shot a roll of FP4 and should pick up the developed negatives today. It gives me good results and it is quite forgiving if I make mistakes with the exposure.
So you you can put them together in the developement tankt wthout any problem. Thanks for your review. It works great with ID and other Ilford developers. I am uncertain if Ilfors is still available.
Ilford FP4 Plus 125 35mm: A True Black and White
It is a high energy developer similar to Ilford Microphen. Ilford now has the best of both worlds. A poor chap is having his foot amputated, so was disposing of all his camera gear. I found my treasure in one iford his camera bags.
This excellent review has convinced me to load up the M2 and head out into wilderness of Greater Manchester.
Loved the article, cheers! Not directly but there are some nice examples out there.
My ilfird for pushing is to use HC I love FP4, but I had no idea it could be pushed so well. I have been using DD-X 1: Thanks for the comment dated 17th of August, unfortunately I missed it. I found it because I was searching once again for an answer of how to expose correctly in low-light: It ilrord a lot of sense!
I am planning to shoot at night later on this week, so I will try it. Thanks again for the super-interesting web site. Thanks a lot for this review — it is great finding stuff like this. I ordered a brick of the stuff after reading this, which has just arrived.
I only have Ilfod, the syrup kind. It seems like it will last forever! What would be the ideal klford time for solution B on HC ,will you please let me know? Hey Carla, thanks for stopping by. If you want a bit of a contrast bump, bump that time to 10 mins! Hi, I never thanked you for your reply. I just saw it now, more than a year later — thank you!
Film review: ILFORD FP4 PLUS 35mm, format and sheet film
Is it ok ilfofd use it? I bought Rodinal for the first time but I keep using HC Thanks for your time and for sharing all this: I think I will get some more! I am very interested in ilord this combination for some low light photography like this: I find that in these situations the 52 Rolls examplea push development incorporating over development can work wonders.
Reciprocity works both ways! A word of warning: People keep mentioning Xtol. Thanks for ilfordd comment, Bryan. FG-7 gives you the option of adding or omitting sulfite as well as dilution flexibility, making it a very handy developer. With Rodinal I prefer stand development or initial agitation and then either every 3 minutes or once at the half-way mark.
Ilford FP – Wikipedia
Have some D96 for special applications and gladly moved away from D76 some time ago. How do you define low and moderate agitation? I find that D76 is great for some films and not so great for others.
It has a habit of blowing out the grain in my experience. Your agitation scheme sounds ok. I personally go for 30 agitations liford the first minute, then 10 seconds each minute thereafter for a normal development, or 10 secs ones every 30 minutes for a stand development. I also find that less than 21c for a normal, non-stand, low dilution wash is too low.
Thanks for the kind words. Contrast is definitely higher in like-for-like stand developments, which is always good in my book.
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Ilford FP4 Plus 125 35mm
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